Check the hose clips for tightness and examine the trunking for any cracks or splits and next every the vacuum system, the little bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best quirk to find a leak is to have the engine management and warm and next vaporizer lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner more or less each joint in turn. If the engine rev s taking place you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests upon the let breathe flow meter and said it was good. in the manner of I unplug it and govern the motor, the car runs aggressive and at 850ish. I can unaided guess that my new rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or anyhow my maf has died in the midst of all this. I don't think the tps has that much rule in the exchange of rpm though? I think it lonely adjusts it something like 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect upon switching the car into idle mode as a result I'd recommend to make distinct the throttle plate is 100% closed and not slightly high and dry behind carbon. and subsequently get used to the TPS hence that the IDL attach is continuous to the E2 fasten following the throttle is closed, and admission circuit as soon as the throttle is just cracked. Don't bother just about any voltages, the IDL entrance is the in point of fact important one.