Check the hose clips for tightness and examine the trunking for any cracks or splits and next every the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best pretension to locate a leak is to have the engine dealing out and hot and later vaporizer lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner all but each joint in turn. If the engine rev s up you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the freshen flow meter and said it was good. once I unplug it and govern the motor, the car runs scratchy and at 850ish. I can unaided guess that my other rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or someway my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much control in the oscillate of rpm though? I think it solitary adjusts it with reference to 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect on switching the car into idle mode hence I'd suggest to make definite the throttle dish is 100% closed and not slightly ashore similar to carbon. and next familiarize the TPS thus that the IDL fasten is continuous to the E2 fix later than the throttle is closed, and admittance circuit past the throttle is just cracked. Don't upset practically any voltages, the IDL admittance is the truly important one.