Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the little bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best pretentiousness to find a leak is to have the engine supervision and hot and subsequently spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner on the subject of each joint in turn. If the engine rev s taking place you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests upon the freshen flow meter and said it was good. considering I unplug it and direct the motor, the car runs prickly and at 850ish. I can isolated guess that my other rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or anyhow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much run in the substitute of rpm though? I think it without help adjusts it roughly 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect upon switching the car into idle mode consequently I'd suggest to create certain the throttle dish is 100% closed and not slightly stuck later than carbon. and after that adapt the TPS suitably that the IDL glue is continuous to the E2 stick later the throttle is closed, and admittance circuit with the throttle is just cracked. Don't badly affect more or less any voltages, the IDL admittance is the in fact important one.