Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and after that every the vacuum system, the little bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best showing off to find a leak is to have the engine government and warm and after that spray can lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner roughly each joint in turn. If the engine rev s happening you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests on the air flow meter and said it was good. taking into consideration I unplug it and control the motor, the car runs harsh and at 850ish. I can on your own guess that my new rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or anyhow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much direct in the substitute of rpm though? I think it unaided adjusts it almost 1k..
This could be a large vacuum leak ,with the MAF similar it is without help measuring the expose that is getting with the MAF, correspondingly if the intake manifold is sucking in air the air to fuel ratio will be enormously out and cause the engine to stall. If MAF is disconnected the engine goes into a limp measurement and lets the engine run. once carb cleaner vaporizer spray can in the place of the hissing in imitation of the engine organization and later than you listen the engine stall or rev difficult there is the leak ,could be a bad vacuum hose bad gasket on the manifold.