Check the hose clips for tightness and examine the trunking for any cracks or splits and as a consequence every the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best artifice to find a leak is to have the engine direction and warm and then spray can lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner roughly speaking each joint in turn. If the engine rev s up you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests upon the freshen flow meter and said it was good. in the same way as I unplug it and run the motor, the car runs uncompromising and at 850ish. I can forlorn guess that my further rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much direct in the alternating of rpm though? I think it without help adjusts it vis--vis 1k..
Hello the TPS does have an effect on switching the car into idle mode so I'd suggest to create certain the throttle dish is 100% closed and not slightly stuck like carbon. and subsequently accustom yourself the TPS correspondingly that the IDL fasten is continuous to the E2 attach as soon as the throttle is closed, and get into circuit in the manner of the throttle is just cracked. Don't upset virtually any voltages, the IDL way in is the in fact important one.